Here we will be adding information about designers. Please feel free to use this information or comment and pass on any information that you think is relevant. This list is in alphabetical order so just scroll down until you find the designer you are looking for.
ANNE KLEIN: 1968 - Present
Anne Klein, a fashion and jewelry designer,
who previously worked for Hattie Carnegie, established her own business, the
Anne Klein & Co., for her own line of clothing and accessories in 1968. The
costume jewelry produced contained designs in colored Lucite stones with gold
plated or brush gold-tone metal base and enameling with the use of simulated
pearls, sapphires, and turquoise stones and rhinestones. Mark "A.K."
or "Ann Klein" tag, "ANNE KLEIN" in a square box. Anne
Klein died in 1974. After her death in 1974, the design of her jewelry was done
by Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio. Since 1981, the jewelry has been
manufactured by Swank, Inc. using the Anne Klein lion logo. The Anne Klein
jewelry along with her fashionable clothing and accessories for women is sold
at Saks 5th
Ave., Bloomingdale’s, and Neiman Marcus to name a few.
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CORO/COROCRAFT/FRANCOIS/VENDOME:
1901- Present
Emanuel Cohn and Gerard Rosenberg opened a
small shop in New York selling jewelry and personal accessories, later becoming
known as "Coro". The name Coro incorporates the first two letters of
each partner's name. Mark, in the beginning: "CR". By the mid 1920's,
the Coro company was the largest manufacturer of costume jewelry and had a work
force of over 2,000. The company produced a broad range of designs and an
immense volume of jewelry at all price levels. Some pins sold in five-and-dime
stores for as low as 50 cents and some pins sold as high as $100 in speciality
stores. Some of the rhinestone studded Coro jewelry can be compare with the
very best produced by other costume jewelry companies. The well designed pieces
of the 1930s-1950s including the duettes and figurals with a clear Lucite
central stone known as "jelly belly", the enameled tremblers, the
whimsical designs by Adolph Katz, and the Mexican sterling pieces are highly
collectible. Marks: some signed "Corocraft", some signed "
Francois" (this mark was used to market the higher end line of costume
jewelry to the wealthier clients until World War II), most signed
"Vendome" (a jewelry line starting in 1944 which was to be their
highest line of costume jewelry), "Coro", used since 1919, some with
year produced, " Coro Craft" since 1937 used for higher end pieces,
"Corocraft" used after WWII, "Pegasus" used after WWII and
"Coro Originals" to name a few of a long list of Coro markings. Coro
ceased production in the U.S. in 1979. Coro Inc. in Canada is still in
operation today.
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GOLDETTE: 1958 -
Unknown
Ben Gartner founded the Circle Jewelry
Products Company NYC in 1958 producing Goldette Costume jewelry. The jewelry
produced was influenced by Asian and Victorian Revival themes using
rhinestones, faux stones and pearls, with ornate metalwork and enamel. Mark:
"GOLDETTE" and "goldette and a copyright symbol" in script
1958 and later.
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HOBE: 1887 - Present
The name Hobe is the family name
of a business starting in Paris, France in 1887 by Jacques Hobe who was
regarded as a master goldsmith recognized throughout Europe as a producer of
fine jewelry. One of his son’s, William Hobe, while still in France, was a
representative for a German company selling theatrical costumes. He came to the
U.S. and sold costumes to Florence Ziegfeld of the Ziegfeld Follies with a
request by Ziegfeld to also create inexpensive but real looking jewelry to go
along with the showgirls costumes. In 1930, William Hobe created the company,
Hobe Cie Ltd. NY producing Hobe costume jewelry.
The Hobe jewelry has been of excellent and
elegant designs with high quality stones embellishing superior sterling silver,
platinum and gold plated metalwork. The Hobe jewelry has been excellent in
workmanship especially on its reproductions of antique jewelry such as the
replicas of the jewelry of the European courts which was made to last. During
the 1950's, Hobe designed and produced jewelry for movies in Hollywood and also
for the movie stars personal collections. Hobe jewelry was said to be the
jewelry of choice in Hollywood, for it was favored by many producers and movie
stars, and was designed to compliment the costumes of actresses in movies. The
jewelry was also used by fashion models in advertising promotions. One of the 1940s
slogans in a Hobe advertisement was "jewels of legendary splendor".
Hobe jewelry advertisements claimed that their jewelry was handmade using
platinum, gold or sterling metal. It has been said that Hobe jewelry is
unmatched in quality. The Hobe Company has been considered one of the very best
of costume jewelry manufacturers in America. Mark: "Hobe with a dash above
the e" on an oval plaque and "Hobe STERLING 14K with a copyright
symbol" in a triangle used in 1958. The Hobe pieces produced between 1935
and 1955 are highly collectible. William Hobe’s sons, Robert and Donald, as of
2004, have continued the business located in Mount Vernon, NY. Some of the Hobe
craftsman, Serillo, Ralph Demassa, Mr. Solomon, Zoltan Imirshaw, Lou Vece and James Hobe
have their own marks on jewelry produced.
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KRAMER: 1943 - 1980
Kramer Jewelry Creations was founded in New
York in 1943 by designer Louis Kramer with brothers Morris and Henry joining
the company in the beginning. The company’s jewelry was of high quality and
design. The company designed and manufactured low to high quality jewelry with
the latter some of the most luxurious and artistic costume jewelry using
diamente and paved rhinestones of clear and color, simulated pearls, lapis,
jade, ruby, and sapphire stones. In the 1950s, the "Golden Look" was
produced using gold plated metal and in the 1960s, the "Diamond Look"
was produced with silver plating. Their designs were always innovative and well
crafted. The company’s higher priced jewelry was usually marked
"KRAMER" or "KRAMER of NEW YORK" while the lower quality
pieces only carried a tag. The company also produced jewelry for Christian Dior
starting in 1950 marked "Kramer for Christian Dior" and
"Dior by Kramer". Kramer created many hand-set quality pieces
that had beautiful and outstanding jewelry designs including those of flowers,
insects, butterflies, crowns, turtles, birds, to name a few. It produced
jewelry pieces with an abundance of the highest quality Austrian rhinestones
and crystals, simulated stones and pearls with clear or a variety of colors.
The company ceased operations in the 1970s.
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LISNER: Early 1900s -
Late 1985
The D. Lisner & Company was
founded in New York City in the early 1900s. The Lisner Company manufactured a
broad range of jewelry from high quality, in the 1950s, using more expensive
and superior aurora borealis stones and rhinestone, to medium priced and the
lower priced range similar to Coro jewelry. Their Richelieu line of jewelry
contained more expensive materials such as aurora borealis and Lucite cabochons
along with Austrian rhinestones. And these pieces today, are some of the best
Lisner produced and most popular with collectors. Mark: "LISNER" in
block was the mark first used in 1935, "Lisner" in script first used
in 1938, and "Lisner in script letters with a long L in a circle"
used in and after 1959. The marks alone does not date jewelry pieces of
Lisner’s 55 plus years of production due to the fact that the molds, findings
and stamping dies were kept and used again at later dates. The Lisner jewelry
designs contained colored rhinestones including aurora borealis, molded plastic
and Lucite stones, some showing Art Deco influence. In 1978, the company
changed its name to Lisner-Richelieu Corporation. The Lisner Company ceased
operations in late 1985.
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MONET: 1928 - Present
(Now Owned by Liz Claiborne Since 2000)
The Monocraft Products Company was founded in
Providence, RI in 1928 by two brothers, Michael and Jay Chernow. The company
first produced gold plated monograms on handbags. The business expanded and
around 1937 began manufacturing jewelry under the name of Monet. Monet jewelry
is of the Art Modern design. In the 1940s, the company started using sterling
silver and silver plating along with the gold plated previously used as base
metal. The jewelry produced is very durable with lasting quality. Monet was
also responsible for several technological advancements in jewelry, the
friction ear clip and the barrel clutch for pierced earrings. The Monocraft
Products Company, that produced Monet jewelry, was acquired by General Mills in
1968, purchased by Crystal Brands Jewelry Group in 1989 to 1994, acquired in
1994 to 2000 by Chase Capital Partners, Lattice Holding, and in 2000 was
purchased by Liz Claiborne Inc. with production of the jewelry moved out of the
U.S. Mark: "MONET", "MONET with copyright symbol" after
1955. Monet jewelry has been in production for more than 75 years and has
successfully adapted to the constant changing images and designs of our
changing times. The Monet jewelry made today still maintains its high quality
and quantity of production. It is still able to change styles and designs
capable of meeting the competitive market of today in costume jewelry.
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NAPIER: 1875 - 1999
The company was founded
in 1875 as Whitney & Rice in Attleboro, Mass. manufacturing silver
products. The company was sold in 1882 and its name changed to Carpenter and
Bliss, and shortly thereafter, in 1878, became E. A. Bliss and Co., Inc., New
York. With rapid expansion starting in the late 1880's, in 1890, the company
moved to Meriden, Conn. Mark “M. Co. inside a large B” on jewelry in 1908, “N”
in an oval shape box for jewelry necklaces, bracelets etc. since Dec. 1923,
“NACO” for jewelry and cases since Dec. 1923. After WWI, the company shifted
its emphasis from silver products to production of modern or costume jewelry.
The
name for the jewelry, “NAPIER” was named after James Napier, its President in
1920, (who headed the company until 1960), changing the company’s name to
Napier-Bliss Co. In 1922, the name was changed again to the Napier Company
located now in Meriden, CT. Marked: “NAPIER” for jewelry since Oct. 1920, and
“By NAPIER” in a box for scarf pins, bracelets, brooches, dress clips, bar
pins, rings, dress and shoe buckles etc. since July 1942, and “NAPIER with a
copyright symbol” after 1955. Trademarks all included the name “NAPIER”.
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SARA COVENTRY: 1949 - 1981
Sara Coventry, Inc. was founded by Charles H.
Stuart in Newark, NY in October 1953. Sara Coventry jewellery for both women and
men was sold at home fashion shows up until the mid 1980s when the company
changed ownership and started moving toward distribution in the traditional
way. Stuart filed for bankruptcy in 1981, therefore, the jewellery was not made
after that date. In 2002, the Sarah Coventry jewellery was again sold at home parties. The
company is in business today. Mark: "Coventry" until 1950, "Sara
Coventry". "SC", "Sarah". Sarah Cov.", and
"SAC".
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TRIFARI (TKE OR TRIFARI, KRUSSMAN
& FISHEL: 1918 – Present
Since the 1918 Trifari has been one of the most
respected and admired producers of high end costume jewellery in the
United States. Founded by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a
Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewelry that’s been worn by
countless high-profile clients, from Mamie Eisenhower to Madonna.
Gustavo Trifari
emigrated from Italy to the U.S. in 1904 and founded Trifari NYC in 1910 after
being a partner and jewelry designer with his uncle in Trifari & Trifari
for several years. Gustavo’s grandfather Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith, had a
small workshop in Naples, Italy in the mid 1800s producing fine jewelry where
Gustavo, working in his workshop, learned the jewelry trade.
In 1917, Leo
Krussman joined the Trifari Company as a sales director and later became a
partner, leading to the forming of the Trifari and Krussman Company. A third
partner, Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman also became a
partner in the firm, in the early 1920s. The company again changed its name to
Trifari, Krussman & Fishel.
Trifari was considered
one of the largest and best known producers of costume jewelry. It started
producing hair ornaments, buckles, and bar pins in silver and base metals set
with rhinestones and later manufactured, a broad range of costume jewelry
creating superb designs and workmanship at different price levels. The Trifari
jewelry produced had a distinctive look, resembling fine jewelry, which can
easily be recognized by collectors. Much of this is due to the work of a great
designer, Alfred Philippe, who worked and designed jewelry for Trifari, for
approximately 38years, from 1930 to 1968, using high quality imported Swarovski
rhinestones that were hand-set in the jewelry piece. Philippe worked as a designer
of fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, and brought to Trifari
many imaginative ideas. He is largely responsible for the creation and
development of Trifari's distinctive and classic look. There were also other
well-known designers who joined Trifari: Jean Paris (1958 - 1965), Andre Boeuf
(1967 - 1979), who had worked for Cartier, and Diane Love (1971-1974) who
designed the company's modern and contemporary jewelry in the early 1970s. Up
until the 1960s, Trifari lead the world in the industry of costume jewelry
producing the highest quality and styles from imaginative sterling vermeil
figurals of the 1940's to its classic gold and silver-tone jewelry of today.
The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930s and 1940s
are sought after today by collectors. Mark: "TFK" 1917, "Trifari
with a crown above the T" 1930s, "Trifari, Krussman, Fishel",
"Trifari with a crown and copyright symbol", and "Diane".
The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930's and
1940's continue to be in high demand by collectors. The Trifari Company was
purchased by Hallmark in the late 1970s, Crystal Grands Jewelry Corp. 1988,
Chase Capital Partners, Lattice Holding Division of the Monet Group 1994, and
Liz Claiborne in July 2000 with production moved out of the U.S.
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WEST GERMANY, GERMANY & EAST
GERMANY: 1871 - Present
The German Empire originated in
1871 and was called Germany through 1948 (after Word War II) when in 1949, it
split to West and East Germany. West Germany, the U.S. British and French Zones
of Occupation became the Federal Republic of Germany with Bonn as its capital.
East Germany (the Soviet zone), West Berlin (the western sectors) and East
Berlin (the Eastern sector) became known as the German Democratic Republic (a
socialist state) comprising the provinces of eastern Pomerania, eastern
Brandenburg, Silesia, and East and West Prussia with its capital Berlin. In
October 1990, East and West Germany unified again, and the country is now known
as Germany.
Items produced including costume jewelry made before and up
through 1948 are marked: “Germany”. Those made in 1949 from West Germany were
marked: “Western Zone Germany“, “American Zone Germany“, “W. Germany“, “West
Germany”, “Made in West Germany”, and “Made in Western Germany”. In East
Germany, items were marked: “German Democratic Republic”. To sum, jewelry
pieces marked just “Germany” were almost certain to be pre-WWII unless they are
newer (1990 - Present).
The German costume jewelry styles designed and
manufactured in the Art Nouveau (poetic interpretation of nature 1890-1915) and
Art Deco (geometric figures and symmetrical forms 1919-1930) include necklaces,
bracelets, brooches/pins, earrings, pendants. medallions, and rings started in
1903. Sterling silver, silver-tone, gold-tone, rhodium, brass, chromium,
filigree, and white base metals were used along with imitation stones of
turquoise, amethyst, emerald, opal, ruby, topaz, lapis, and pearl (to name a
few), clear and multi colored crystals, rhinestones, lampwork beads, crackle
glass and art glass beads. Matching sets of pendants and medallions consisting
of a necklace, earrings and bracelet with Cameos of ladies and flowers
surrounded by delicate pearls and rhinestones on filigree gold-tone and
silver-tone metal enameled were also designed and produced in West Germany and
Germany. The European country, by hand, created exceptional examples of costume
jewelry. The costume jewelry, the old style designs of Germany and West
Germany, were probably produced in the 1920’s through the 1950’s, and were
similar to those of Miriam Haskell, Original by Robert, Stanley Hagler and De
Mario. Costume jewelry made in West Germany is becoming scarce and hard to
find.
ANNE KLEIN: 1968 - Present
Anne Klein, a fashion and jewelry designer,
who previously worked for Hattie Carnegie, established her own business, the
Anne Klein & Co., for her own line of clothing and accessories in 1968. The
costume jewelry produced contained designs in colored Lucite stones with gold
plated or brush gold-tone metal base and enameling with the use of simulated
pearls, sapphires, and turquoise stones and rhinestones. Mark "A.K."
or "Ann Klein" tag, "ANNE KLEIN" in a square box. Anne
Klein died in 1974. After her death in 1974, the design of her jewelry was done
by Donna Karan and Louis Dell’Olio. Since 1981, the jewelry has been
manufactured by Swank, Inc. using the Anne Klein lion logo. The Anne Klein
jewelry along with her fashionable clothing and accessories for women is sold
at Saks 5th
Ave., Bloomingdale’s, and Neiman Marcus to name a few.
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CORO/COROCRAFT/FRANCOIS/VENDOME: 1901- Present
Emanuel Cohn and Gerard Rosenberg opened a
small shop in New York selling jewelry and personal accessories, later becoming
known as "Coro". The name Coro incorporates the first two letters of
each partner's name. Mark, in the beginning: "CR". By the mid 1920's,
the Coro company was the largest manufacturer of costume jewelry and had a work
force of over 2,000. The company produced a broad range of designs and an
immense volume of jewelry at all price levels. Some pins sold in five-and-dime
stores for as low as 50 cents and some pins sold as high as $100 in speciality
stores. Some of the rhinestone studded Coro jewelry can be compare with the
very best produced by other costume jewelry companies. The well designed pieces
of the 1930s-1950s including the duettes and figurals with a clear Lucite
central stone known as "jelly belly", the enameled tremblers, the
whimsical designs by Adolph Katz, and the Mexican sterling pieces are highly
collectible. Marks: some signed "Corocraft", some signed "
Francois" (this mark was used to market the higher end line of costume
jewelry to the wealthier clients until World War II), most signed
"Vendome" (a jewelry line starting in 1944 which was to be their
highest line of costume jewelry), "Coro", used since 1919, some with
year produced, " Coro Craft" since 1937 used for higher end pieces,
"Corocraft" used after WWII, "Pegasus" used after WWII and
"Coro Originals" to name a few of a long list of Coro markings. Coro
ceased production in the U.S. in 1979. Coro Inc. in Canada is still in
operation today.
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GOLDETTE: 1958 - Unknown
Ben Gartner founded the Circle Jewelry
Products Company NYC in 1958 producing Goldette Costume jewelry. The jewelry
produced was influenced by Asian and Victorian Revival themes using
rhinestones, faux stones and pearls, with ornate metalwork and enamel. Mark:
"GOLDETTE" and "goldette and a copyright symbol" in script
1958 and later.
LISNER: Early 1900s - Late 1985
MONET: 1928 - Present (Now Owned by Liz Claiborne Since 2000)
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HOBE: 1887 - Present
The name Hobe is the family name
of a business starting in Paris, France in 1887 by Jacques Hobe who was
regarded as a master goldsmith recognized throughout Europe as a producer of
fine jewelry. One of his son’s, William Hobe, while still in France, was a
representative for a German company selling theatrical costumes. He came to the
U.S. and sold costumes to Florence Ziegfeld of the Ziegfeld Follies with a
request by Ziegfeld to also create inexpensive but real looking jewelry to go
along with the showgirls costumes. In 1930, William Hobe created the company,
Hobe Cie Ltd. NY producing Hobe costume jewelry.
The Hobe jewelry has been of excellent and
elegant designs with high quality stones embellishing superior sterling silver,
platinum and gold plated metalwork. The Hobe jewelry has been excellent in
workmanship especially on its reproductions of antique jewelry such as the
replicas of the jewelry of the European courts which was made to last. During
the 1950's, Hobe designed and produced jewelry for movies in Hollywood and also
for the movie stars personal collections. Hobe jewelry was said to be the
jewelry of choice in Hollywood, for it was favored by many producers and movie
stars, and was designed to compliment the costumes of actresses in movies. The
jewelry was also used by fashion models in advertising promotions. One of the 1940s
slogans in a Hobe advertisement was "jewels of legendary splendor".
Hobe jewelry advertisements claimed that their jewelry was handmade using
platinum, gold or sterling metal. It has been said that Hobe jewelry is
unmatched in quality. The Hobe Company has been considered one of the very best
of costume jewelry manufacturers in America. Mark: "Hobe with a dash above
the e" on an oval plaque and "Hobe STERLING 14K with a copyright
symbol" in a triangle used in 1958. The Hobe pieces produced between 1935
and 1955 are highly collectible. William Hobe’s sons, Robert and Donald, as of
2004, have continued the business located in Mount Vernon, NY. Some of the Hobe
craftsman, Serillo, Ralph Demassa, Mr. Solomon, Zoltan Imirshaw, Lou Vece and James Hobe
have their own marks on jewelry produced.
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KRAMER: 1943 - 1980
Kramer Jewelry Creations was founded in New
York in 1943 by designer Louis Kramer with brothers Morris and Henry joining
the company in the beginning. The company’s jewelry was of high quality and
design. The company designed and manufactured low to high quality jewelry with
the latter some of the most luxurious and artistic costume jewelry using
diamente and paved rhinestones of clear and color, simulated pearls, lapis,
jade, ruby, and sapphire stones. In the 1950s, the "Golden Look" was
produced using gold plated metal and in the 1960s, the "Diamond Look"
was produced with silver plating. Their designs were always innovative and well
crafted. The company’s higher priced jewelry was usually marked
"KRAMER" or "KRAMER of NEW YORK" while the lower quality
pieces only carried a tag. The company also produced jewelry for Christian Dior
starting in 1950 marked "Kramer for Christian Dior" and
"Dior by Kramer". Kramer created many hand-set quality pieces
that had beautiful and outstanding jewelry designs including those of flowers,
insects, butterflies, crowns, turtles, birds, to name a few. It produced
jewelry pieces with an abundance of the highest quality Austrian rhinestones
and crystals, simulated stones and pearls with clear or a variety of colors.
The company ceased operations in the 1970s.
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LISNER: Early 1900s - Late 1985
The D. Lisner & Company was
founded in New York City in the early 1900s. The Lisner Company manufactured a
broad range of jewelry from high quality, in the 1950s, using more expensive
and superior aurora borealis stones and rhinestone, to medium priced and the
lower priced range similar to Coro jewelry. Their Richelieu line of jewelry
contained more expensive materials such as aurora borealis and Lucite cabochons
along with Austrian rhinestones. And these pieces today, are some of the best
Lisner produced and most popular with collectors. Mark: "LISNER" in
block was the mark first used in 1935, "Lisner" in script first used
in 1938, and "Lisner in script letters with a long L in a circle"
used in and after 1959. The marks alone does not date jewelry pieces of
Lisner’s 55 plus years of production due to the fact that the molds, findings
and stamping dies were kept and used again at later dates. The Lisner jewelry
designs contained colored rhinestones including aurora borealis, molded plastic
and Lucite stones, some showing Art Deco influence. In 1978, the company
changed its name to Lisner-Richelieu Corporation. The Lisner Company ceased
operations in late 1985.
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MONET: 1928 - Present (Now Owned by Liz Claiborne Since 2000)
The Monocraft Products Company was founded in
Providence, RI in 1928 by two brothers, Michael and Jay Chernow. The company
first produced gold plated monograms on handbags. The business expanded and
around 1937 began manufacturing jewelry under the name of Monet. Monet jewelry
is of the Art Modern design. In the 1940s, the company started using sterling
silver and silver plating along with the gold plated previously used as base
metal. The jewelry produced is very durable with lasting quality. Monet was
also responsible for several technological advancements in jewelry, the
friction ear clip and the barrel clutch for pierced earrings. The Monocraft
Products Company, that produced Monet jewelry, was acquired by General Mills in
1968, purchased by Crystal Brands Jewelry Group in 1989 to 1994, acquired in
1994 to 2000 by Chase Capital Partners, Lattice Holding, and in 2000 was
purchased by Liz Claiborne Inc. with production of the jewelry moved out of the
U.S. Mark: "MONET", "MONET with copyright symbol" after
1955. Monet jewelry has been in production for more than 75 years and has
successfully adapted to the constant changing images and designs of our
changing times. The Monet jewelry made today still maintains its high quality
and quantity of production. It is still able to change styles and designs
capable of meeting the competitive market of today in costume jewelry.
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NAPIER: 1875 - 1999
The company was founded
in 1875 as Whitney & Rice in Attleboro, Mass. manufacturing silver
products. The company was sold in 1882 and its name changed to Carpenter and
Bliss, and shortly thereafter, in 1878, became E. A. Bliss and Co., Inc., New
York. With rapid expansion starting in the late 1880's, in 1890, the company
moved to Meriden, Conn. Mark “M. Co. inside a large B” on jewelry in 1908, “N”
in an oval shape box for jewelry necklaces, bracelets etc. since Dec. 1923,
“NACO” for jewelry and cases since Dec. 1923. After WWI, the company shifted
its emphasis from silver products to production of modern or costume jewelry.
The
name for the jewelry, “NAPIER” was named after James Napier, its President in
1920, (who headed the company until 1960), changing the company’s name to
Napier-Bliss Co. In 1922, the name was changed again to the Napier Company
located now in Meriden, CT. Marked: “NAPIER” for jewelry since Oct. 1920, and
“By NAPIER” in a box for scarf pins, bracelets, brooches, dress clips, bar
pins, rings, dress and shoe buckles etc. since July 1942, and “NAPIER with a
copyright symbol” after 1955. Trademarks all included the name “NAPIER”.
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SARA COVENTRY: 1949 - 1981
Sara Coventry, Inc. was founded by Charles H. Stuart in Newark, NY in October 1953. Sara Coventry jewellery for both women and men was sold at home fashion shows up until the mid 1980s when the company changed ownership and started moving toward distribution in the traditional way. Stuart filed for bankruptcy in 1981, therefore, the jewellery was not made after that date. In 2002, the Sarah Coventry jewellery was again sold at home parties. The company is in business today. Mark: "Coventry" until 1950, "Sara Coventry". "SC", "Sarah". Sarah Cov.", and "SAC".
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TRIFARI (TKE OR TRIFARI, KRUSSMAN
& FISHEL: 1918 – Present
Since the 1918 Trifari has been one of the most
respected and admired producers of high end costume jewellery in the
United States. Founded by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a
Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewelry that’s been worn by
countless high-profile clients, from Mamie Eisenhower to Madonna.
Gustavo Trifari
emigrated from Italy to the U.S. in 1904 and founded Trifari NYC in 1910 after
being a partner and jewelry designer with his uncle in Trifari & Trifari
for several years. Gustavo’s grandfather Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith, had a
small workshop in Naples, Italy in the mid 1800s producing fine jewelry where
Gustavo, working in his workshop, learned the jewelry trade.
In 1917, Leo
Krussman joined the Trifari Company as a sales director and later became a
partner, leading to the forming of the Trifari and Krussman Company. A third
partner, Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman also became a
partner in the firm, in the early 1920s. The company again changed its name to
Trifari, Krussman & Fishel.
Trifari was considered
one of the largest and best known producers of costume jewelry. It started
producing hair ornaments, buckles, and bar pins in silver and base metals set
with rhinestones and later manufactured, a broad range of costume jewelry
creating superb designs and workmanship at different price levels. The Trifari
jewelry produced had a distinctive look, resembling fine jewelry, which can
easily be recognized by collectors. Much of this is due to the work of a great
designer, Alfred Philippe, who worked and designed jewelry for Trifari, for
approximately 38years, from 1930 to 1968, using high quality imported Swarovski
rhinestones that were hand-set in the jewelry piece. Philippe worked as a designer
of fine jewelry for Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, and brought to Trifari
many imaginative ideas. He is largely responsible for the creation and
development of Trifari's distinctive and classic look. There were also other
well-known designers who joined Trifari: Jean Paris (1958 - 1965), Andre Boeuf
(1967 - 1979), who had worked for Cartier, and Diane Love (1971-1974) who
designed the company's modern and contemporary jewelry in the early 1970s. Up
until the 1960s, Trifari lead the world in the industry of costume jewelry
producing the highest quality and styles from imaginative sterling vermeil
figurals of the 1940's to its classic gold and silver-tone jewelry of today.
The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930s and 1940s
are sought after today by collectors. Mark: "TFK" 1917, "Trifari
with a crown above the T" 1930s, "Trifari, Krussman, Fishel",
"Trifari with a crown and copyright symbol", and "Diane".
The Trifari figurals, retro florals, and jelly-bellies from the 1930's and
1940's continue to be in high demand by collectors. The Trifari Company was
purchased by Hallmark in the late 1970s, Crystal Grands Jewelry Corp. 1988,
Chase Capital Partners, Lattice Holding Division of the Monet Group 1994, and
Liz Claiborne in July 2000 with production moved out of the U.S.
§†§†§†§†§†§†§†§†§†§†§
WEST GERMANY, GERMANY & EAST
GERMANY: 1871 - Present
The German Empire originated in
1871 and was called Germany through 1948 (after Word War II) when in 1949, it
split to West and East Germany. West Germany, the U.S. British and French Zones
of Occupation became the Federal Republic of Germany with Bonn as its capital.
East Germany (the Soviet zone), West Berlin (the western sectors) and East
Berlin (the Eastern sector) became known as the German Democratic Republic (a
socialist state) comprising the provinces of eastern Pomerania, eastern
Brandenburg, Silesia, and East and West Prussia with its capital Berlin. In
October 1990, East and West Germany unified again, and the country is now known
as Germany.
Items produced including costume jewelry made before and up
through 1948 are marked: “Germany”. Those made in 1949 from West Germany were
marked: “Western Zone Germany“, “American Zone Germany“, “W. Germany“, “West
Germany”, “Made in West Germany”, and “Made in Western Germany”. In East
Germany, items were marked: “German Democratic Republic”. To sum, jewelry
pieces marked just “Germany” were almost certain to be pre-WWII unless they are
newer (1990 - Present).
The German costume jewelry styles designed and
manufactured in the Art Nouveau (poetic interpretation of nature 1890-1915) and
Art Deco (geometric figures and symmetrical forms 1919-1930) include necklaces,
bracelets, brooches/pins, earrings, pendants. medallions, and rings started in
1903. Sterling silver, silver-tone, gold-tone, rhodium, brass, chromium,
filigree, and white base metals were used along with imitation stones of
turquoise, amethyst, emerald, opal, ruby, topaz, lapis, and pearl (to name a
few), clear and multi colored crystals, rhinestones, lampwork beads, crackle
glass and art glass beads. Matching sets of pendants and medallions consisting
of a necklace, earrings and bracelet with Cameos of ladies and flowers
surrounded by delicate pearls and rhinestones on filigree gold-tone and
silver-tone metal enameled were also designed and produced in West Germany and
Germany. The European country, by hand, created exceptional examples of costume
jewelry. The costume jewelry, the old style designs of Germany and West
Germany, were probably produced in the 1920’s through the 1950’s, and were
similar to those of Miriam Haskell, Original by Robert, Stanley Hagler and De
Mario. Costume jewelry made in West Germany is becoming scarce and hard to
find.
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